CHAD

January 2012

Trip report 2011 - another from late 2011

CFA exchange rates
CFA (Afrique Centrale) is exchangeable 1:1 at local markets in border areas (Mao, N'Guigmi) with CFA (Afrique de l'Ouest) and in banks in Agadez, Zinder and N'Djamena.

Price of fuel
In N'Djamena: diesel 600 CFA/L, petrol 650. At least 10% more in the countryside.

Costs
Expensive.

Useful languages
French, Arabic.

Visas
Needed by all Europeans except French. There's a consulate in Niamey (on the spot about 15,000 CFA) as well as Paris.

Border formalities
Carnet not needed at any border. For a fee of about 5000 CFA, a 'Laissez-Passer pour Vehicules' will be issued at all custom border posts, including Daboua when arriving from N'Guigmi, travelling along the Lake Chad route. It is no longer mandatory to see customs at Bol or Mao.

Registration: Tourists visiting Chad have to register at the 'Commissariat Centrale' in N'Djamena (30 minutes, 1 passport photo, no cost). Stamp in passport will be checked at road checkpoints.
Autorisation de Circuler: in order to avoid problems, every traveller needs either an 'Ordre de Mission' (NGOs, companies) or an 'Autorisation de Circuler'. This document is available easily and free of charge within one or two days from Monsieur Tatoula at Ministere de l'Administration du Territoire, Secretariat Generale, Direction de l'Interieur, Service des Authorisations diverses. You will find him near roundabout traffic close to the Novotel. Just have your passport ready and know all places you will be going to visit, best in alphabetical order.

Guides
According to Chadian law, in Northern Chad (B.E.T), every tourist has to be accompanied by a local guide. Prices: 50,000 CFA Faya-Kouba Oulanga, 70,000 CFA Fada-Faya, 100,000 CFA Gouro-Faya, 75,000 CFA Faya-Zouar, 250,000 CFA Ounianga-Fada. Guides will be provided by the Sous-prefet. See also this.

Desert pistes
Chad is the tough one to visit independently (tours very occasionally visit the Ounianga lakes and the Ennedi, as described in the book). In most places of northern Chad it will be a good idea to check in first at the Sous Prefecture to learn about current problems as there might be newly laid land mines, rebel activities, highwaymen or current military activities.

Dangers
Pistes across mined areas are found in many parts of northern Chad including Erg de Djourab, Ennedi, Tibesti, Ounianga, Faya-Wour, Col de Yei Lulu on piste from Zouar to Seguedine (Niger). Banditry also exists along the Abeche west-east road.
Bush camping is not recommended on the Lake Chad route from Niger.